Raw notes about topics in clinical integrative physiology, and whatever else I'm curious about at the time, such as road cycling.
Friday, April 27, 2012
Advanced Rear Derailleur Fine Tuning
Here's my advanced sequence for better rear derailleur indexing.
Pre adjustment
Ensure the chain has the right no. of links, is clean, and lubed. Clean and lube the derailleurs.
Shift gearing into highest gear (large front chainring, smallest rear sprocket)
Release the rear derailleur cable fastening bolt.
If chain has not been falling off, don't adjust inner and outer stop screws.
Adjustment
Standing facing RHS of bicycle, grip the rear der barrel adjuster with your left hand (thumb on top fingers on bottom).
Loosen the barrel by winding it back to starting position. This is achieved by winding thumb towards yourself, and lower fingers towards the wheel. Do so until you feel it firm up, then wind back the other way about 1/2 a turn.
If there are fine adjusters along the gear cable, wind them back to the starting position also. When sitting on the bike, this is achieved by grasping with the right hand (thumb on top, fingers underneath) and winding thumb towards centreline of bike, and fingers to laterally.
Now pull the rear der cable through firmly with your fingers and tighten the cable fastening bolt to spec.
Set the right (rear) shifter onto the 4th smallest sprocket, by clicking 3 times (assuming chain was on smallest sprocket)
Don't worry if the chain is not sitting cleanly on the sprocket.
Now the idea of fine adjusting is to set the chain centrally on its sprocket. This is best achieved thus:
Before fine adjustment you need to wind the adjuster so that the chain is not rubbing on either of the two adjacent sprockets.
Once this is achieved, you then loosen the adjuster (so that the chain moves away from the wheel) until you begin to hear the chain rubbing against the adjacent smaller outer sprocket.
OK, now you have to tighten the adjuster until you hear the rubbing noise stop and keep going right across until you hear the chain rub on the adjacent larger inner sprocket. While doing this, count the number of 1/4 turns it takes. This is really important.
Once you hear that noise, then you loosen the adjuster half of the total 1/4 turns counted.
i.e. if you counted 14 turns, then you wind it 7 times.
Theoretically (and practically) this should now have the chain centred on the 4th smallest sprocket.
Test up and down shifts to see how good it is.
When fine adjusting, you get a more accurate result by having more tension in the chain, hence why it's best to use the larger chainring.
It's also better to center the chain on the 4th or 5th sprocket, as this reduces chain angle effect.
No comments:
Post a Comment